One Last Romp Down The Las Vegas Strip

It's easy enough to return from vacation and say, "Oh, I'd love to live there," which, of course, in practical terms, is seldom realistic. I've been to Las Vegas at least two dozen times over the past two decades, and each time I return, I remain madly in love with the city.

I'm not a gambler, thank god (though I'm ashamed to admit I blew 5 bucks on the slots at the airport... yes, a whole 5), so that holds no appeal... I truly believe Vegas has reaped the best of New York, Los Angeles and Miami—the three greatest cities in America—in terms of music, dining, culture and entertainment... honestly, I could see myself living there. God knows the cost of living trumps the alternatives.

Alas, for now, I shall continue to hold onto so many memories that we've shared here on The Smoking Nun this past week. Hopefully, a year from now, I shall return for the first anniversary of Celine's show at Caesar's Palace, as I did each time during her "A New Day" residency.

In the meantime, let's take one final stroll down the Las Vegas Strip... with a little tease here and there of the past meets present...

Las Vegas: CityCenter's Swanky Vdara Hotel

The Aria, The Crystals, Harmon Hotel, Vdara, The Cosmopolitan, Mandarin Oriental & Veer Towers. Put the seven together and you've got the massive CityCenter, across 76 acres at the south end of the Vegas Strip. The largest privately funded project in the nation's history, which opened in late 2009, cost $9.2 billion to build.

During the first leg of our Vegas trip, Ayhan, Fredly, Leo and meese stayed at the Hilton Grand Vacations on the north end of the Strip, in a beautiful 2-bedroom suite, complete with a kitchen (full-size fridge, oven, dishwasher), a washer/dryer, living room and beautiful bathroom... This 700+ square foot joint was more spacious than many New York apartments, cool cats.

On Wednesday, when Fred headed back to L.A., we transferred to the Vdara within City Center. Nuttin' personal, but suddenly, it felt like we were slumming at the Hilton... I have to say, not only was this among the most technologically sophisticated hotels I've ever seen (electronic "Do Not Disturb" and "Housekeeping" buttons, automated shades, flash card room entry, elevators that looked like a spaceship), but I felt like I should be wearing a velvet smoking jacket just to sit on the sofa.

It didn't hurt a bit that when we checked in, the front desk upgraded us from a king bed with living room suite to a complementary 800-square-foot one-bedroom suite on the 25th floor—and a corner room, at that. And here's the real brow-raiser: Because the complex (which opened in December 2009) is working its tail off to compete with more established high-end establishments on the Strip, our room was $125 a day (before Vegas' annoying $30+ in taxes)—in the same range as lower-end joints like Treasure Island. We got a fucking great deal, for sure.

Enough words: I'll let the picolas do the rest of the talking...The Vdara in its sleek mirrored glory...Looking down from our window...Sweet suite!Vdara lower level...Ayhan & Leo in the surreal elevator.
The view from our corner window... daylight and dusk...Room 25047 living quarters. Yes, baby!Kitchen, baby...The bathroom... and an idiot standing in the mirror...This, cool cats, is the view from the bathroom!! Daytime & nighttime. And why did I return to New York?

Las Vegas: The Recession Is Alive & Well

While the 76-acre City Center on the Las Vegas Strip is a testament to U.S. capitalism, it was hardly a given that the mammoth project would ever be completed. After concrete was first poured in mid-2006, the recession crippled Vegas harder than any other city in the nation—and in 2009, MGM defaulted on $200 million in financing. Fortunately, that project found its footing and was completed in 2009.

Unfortunately, not all new commercial projects have had lady luck on their side. The $2.9 billion, 3,889-room, 68-story Fontainebleau hotel/condo/casino on 24.5 acres at the north end of the Strip, which broke ground in 2007 and topped out in November 2008, sits incomplete, with 70% of the construction completed, after investors filed for bankruptcy in June 2009.

In 2007, the land was valued at $30 million an acre. In late 2009, the property was sold for $150 million—translating to just over $6 million per acre. In October 2010, all furnishings intended for the Fontainebleau were auctioned, while the new owner says he has no specific plans to complete the project.Here's what the Fontainebleau looks like today...
Photos: The Smoking Nun/VegasTodayAndTomorrow.com

Las Vegas: Another Day In Paradise

Quittin' time: 5 p.m. on a Thursday.

Las Vegas: Downtrodden Downtown

Along Las Vegas' glossy strip of bombastic theme hotels, glitz and glamor, life is a fairy tale where all things seem possible... just look at how many folks dump dollars into the slot machines with big dreams. But downtown in old Vegas along Fremont Street, it's an entirely different story.

Sure, you can still find $8 prime rib dinners and $2 Henekens, but it's also a terribly depressed—if not depressing—blemish on the Vegas landscape. Homeless people abound and the streets reveal a grit and grime during daylight hours that you simply don't see along the sleek, slick Strip.

It reveals a glimpse of what once was, before deep-pocketed investors began to implode decrepit hotels along the strip, supplanting them with the new upscale Vegas generation. City Center, where we stayed our final two nights, is the ideal example.

There's something for everyone, for sure. Binions, El Cortez, Golden Nugget, Golden Spike, Four Queens and Fremont are a fond glimpse of the old school. All good, cool cats.The Greyhound bus station... then and now.

TImes Square: Your Pepes Say Heeey!

Walking through Times Square Wednesday, I saw your mamer and your cousin Leviticus. They say, "Heeeeey!"

Greenwich Village Post-Sunset Stroll

A post-sunset stroll down the West Village's Christopher Street reveals plenty of still-standing local businesses, thank god.